All posts by visicity

Happy new Year!

I wish you an inspiring, full of good surprises, open mind and discovers of the others and their cultures.

I sincerely hope that 2016 will be more human and more peaceful but for this, we need also to take an active part on it so to us to share common space, share stories and histories to help to understand the other and don’t forget what fury destroyed!

Amsterdam in 3 days

Summary of the trail:
Amsterdam is worldly known for its canals, its bikers (the ones who ride a bicycle… but that doesn’t do a real different regarding to their driven!), its paintings (and Rembrandt’s ones), Anne Frank, its Red light District and… its coffee shops! Be clear, you will not find here a guide of the best coffee shops available in town. Many guides still exist and if you have any doubt of your capacity to find one “coffee shop” which sell not the beverage but hemp, don’t be afraid, eyes but above all your smell will find them without any margin of error…
No, I suggest you here my 2 days experience of the Dutch capital, based on visit, food, wandering, discoveries and food!
Note: the core city of Amsterdam is really easy for pedestrians! (everything is accessible in 30min max)

Watch it in full screen

Your name as author of the trail: Hélène Herniou – visicity

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Reaching the capital

Day 1

Walking through Amsterdam and the Rijksmuseum

How to arrive?

If your arrive by train, the itinerary is quite simple: the main train station “Amsterdam Centraal” is on the North of the core city centre. But if you come from the “Amsterdam Airport Schiphol” you can take a train from the airport to “Amsterdam Centraal” (around 20min). You can buy your ticket on the yellow machines (which even offer you different languages!); prices were, in February 2015, of 5,10€ by ticket. Note that you have to check in and out with this ticket.

Accomodation in Amsterdam
Starting visiting, the Morning

Of course, that depends a lot of when you arrived but if, as me, you arrive an evening, you’ll prefer to wander the evening around your accommodation and starting visiting the day after, at the Morning.

  • Start from the train station and walk toward the Damrak. Continue to walk down this street and you’ll see on the right side of the street a huge brick red building; it is the Stock exchange building (“Beurs van Berlage“). You can visit it when there are exhibitions or free entry or, if you want to have a look and drink a hot beverage because of the weather, a cafe is located in the rare of the building. For the little anecdote, the civil wedding of the current king Willem-Alexander was celebrated inside the building.
  • Continue straight away, toward the Royal Palace (on the Dam Place). Just before, you will see the Bijenkorf, the Dutch equivalent of John Lewis, Debenhaus or Selfridges. The palace can be visited (c. 9€*). When the new king, Wilhem-Alexander, was crowned (even if, in the Dutch dynasty, the new king or queen never wears crown but automatically becomes head of the Royal House when the predecessor signs his/her resignation) the 30th April 2013, this place was full of people (and journalists).
  • On the same place, you can see the Nieuwe Kerk (the New Church… from the 15th century). It is no longer used for church services (exception of the wedding of Wilhem-Alexander and Màxima) but an exhibition centre (up to 8€*). A little bit further behind this building, you’ll find another big shopping centre: the Magna Plaza.
  • Cross the road and take after the second street on your right, Kalverstraat, one of the most commercial streets of Amsterdam, specialized in expensive brands. Take later the Gedempte Begijnensloot street, on your right, that will bring you to the Amsterdam Museum. Even if you don’t want to visit it (up to 12€*), this place deserves a look because of its architecture and complex of buildings and the charm that inspired this place! And there we are! The next gate is the Beguine closed community, called Beguinage, or in Dutch the Begijnhof. This series of community houses is really a green peace place in the core of this city that is, finally and even with its canals, no so green that it could be outside the core city centre. The architecture is a mix of medieval houses plans and 17th-18th centuries facades. Another point to out is that this series is turned toward an inner garden, that is one of the last examples in the city. About the Beguines, they were women, not necessarily nuns, and turned their services to sick people. Many tales exist around this place, mainly because of the religious war, when all the country becomes Protestant and no longer Catholic. But now, ironically, the Beguinage church is not Roman Catholic nor Calvinist Protestant but English Reformed Church.

* You will quickly realised that Museums prices are just overpriced! Count around 10-15€ for one visit! That is totally crazy but two solutions exist:
1) you don’t go to every museums you wish to but select one or two
2) you think that you will be not come back again and Dutch art is definitely your favorite one! A Museums card exist, that costs 54,90€ that to say 4 museums visits… To find the list of participated museums (they are quite all in) and where to buy your card, please follow this link.

What to eat?!
  • I have to confess that I had many ideas about Dutch food and its quality before visiting Amsterdam but it seems that there is not only the British food which knows a huge improvement, Dutch one too! A first possibility so is to find a takeway caterer. One that I particularly enjoyed (and has a really good selections of cheese, not the one for tourists) is Sterk Staaltje (Staalstraat 12). Here you’ll find homemade sandwiches, traiteur Dutch meals as stamppot Boerenkool (sausage with mash potatoes and vegetable) or Erwtensoep (peas soup with cooked with sausages) but also salads, dried sausages, fantastic bread, incredible gouda (from young to mature, I particularly suggest to taste the mature one, a pleasure in mouth), sweets viennoiserie and local alcohols.
  • About restaurants with Dutch cuisine, you will see, they are a little bit more complicated to find that other kind of cuisine. You can nonetheless find a (official) selection here. I have to say that I didn’t try any of them (for my experience of Dutch restaurant, see Day 1, for the dinner) but be careful because many restaurants are closed for lunch (it’s the case of the Blauwe aan de Waal, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 99)
  • Indonesia was a former Dutch colony and their taste for this food is still really present. You’ll can find many of Indonesian restaurants but also Thai and Vietnamese restaurants, in particular in the “China Town”, on the north of the Red Light district (but maybe too far if you aim to go to the Rijksmuseum as I did). You will find also other kind of cuisines: Italian, burgers, kebabs, … but I was surprise by the number of South American/Argentinian restaurants (it seems that many belong to the same brand as it is for RANCHO)
Afternoon with Rembrandt (and the others!)

The Rijksmuseum suggests to come visiting from 9 to 11am or after 2pm… As holidays are also made to rest, I took the second option and, to be sure to not have too many people, I visited a Friday afternoon.

  • After your lunch, and if you were in Sterk Staaltje, cross the Amstel river and follow, straight (or near of) away the Reguliesgracht. A market place takes place near the Amstelkerk (that can be seen on the map) and a free water fountain point is available there. Follow then on the right the Prinsengracht then Spiegelgracht then straight away, toward this hige neogothic red brick building that is the Rijksmuseum. I advice you to book in advance your ticket to avoid the so famously long queue. Another interested info: if the enter price is 17.50€, the mobile application (but only for Android or iTunes) is free and, as quite in every restaurants, B&B and train station, a free wifi access is available! The Museum departments are divided in 7: special collections (Delft, mode, weaponry, models and Asian artworks), 1100-1600 (paintings, sculptures and engravings), 1700-1900 (paintings, engravings, earthenware
    and china and sculptures, 2 really interesting period rooms: Amsterdian style bedroom and Haarlemian style bedroom and one self portrait of Vincent van Gogh), 1600-1700 (level where you can see the Nightwatch and the Milkmaid but also tapestries, paintings, engravings, medals, dollhouses and sculptures) and finally the 1900-2000 department that is actually divided in two, for totally practical and architectural reasons. These two sides of the top roof of the building are really worth a visit because, among the collections are a plane, De Stijl artworks and Yves Saint Laurent works.
  • Don’t hesitate to take a break in the cafe in one of the covered court that is really peaceful and allow you to see again the day light! Their fresh mint tea is nice!
  • Even if you don’t want to buy anything, the Museum shop is nice to see, among the products, the Playmobil statues, at the enter of the shop or the Milkmaid and Nightwatch scenes available in plastic!
Dinning
  • After a Museum session, if you have still energy, a skating rink is placed in front of the Museum (but I imagine only during winter months) or the Van Gogh and Stedelijk Museums are just around the green place in front of the Rijks! Or, if not, I suggest you to walk a little bit around, seeing all the workers come back their jobs by bikes! It’s really not a myth: you find A LOT of bikes in town and, definitely, as a bike can crush a pedestrian, you are at the bottom list of the power users of the streets, bikes will certainly not stop for you and can drive in any directions so don’t apply the car restrictions to them!
  • The area around Museums is definitely posh and shows you another face of the wealthy 19th century in Amsterdam. A walk around canals towards the Leidseplen (a place with a lot of restaurants, bars,…) then toward again the Prinsengracht (the canal of the Prince, if you wonder since the beginning of this day), on the left will lead you to one of the best Dutch cuisine restaurant I tried: the Molenpad (Prinsengracht 653) where I discovered the Ossenworst (see below) that is a minced meat sausage. It could be sound strange but that is indeed really good. Of course, as you could guess, I am not a Vegetarian that is quite convenient to taste the Dutch food but they are enough aware of all these questions of diets and intolerance so, if you are in this/these case/s, don’t worry!
  • Amsterdam is one of the most active and dynamic cities in the world so why not enjoy a concert there?! You can find a lot of live concerts in bars and some restaurant but if you want something a little bit out of the maintream or known fields, discovering Tolhuistuin could be benefit! This venue is in front of the central train station but the other bank. You can easily rich it by using a free boat that navigates between banks (you can find it just behind the train station)

Note: transports are expensive but also not necessary (because so many things are feet accessible) but a good tip is to take a 24 hours ticket, payable inside the tram and buses, for 7,50€.

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Day 2

Day 2

This second day is not a guided tour but suggestions of what I appreciated or found interesting when I walked through them.

The Jordaan

This district is perfect for walking around but also to find your lunch or dinner. You’ll find there many of restaurants and take-away, from (quite) all around the world but also shops. This district was, until these last decades, the area of the working class and, that you can still feel, that is a nice mix with the 17th century canals buildings. But the spirit of this district spreads wider that the map limits. In the Vinkenstraat and Harleemerdijk (more in the North-West) streets have the same spirit but more hype and hipster-chic turned. I have to say that if I enjoyed walk through the Jordaan but I really more enjoyed the Harleemdijk one with its Pho House (which does a really good Phò soup, excellent Banh Cuon and not bad Bo Bun!), Haarlemmerdijk 6, or this astonishing Spanish restaurant-grocery, Ibericus, Haarlemmerdijk 93, where you can select the smoked Spanish ham, you wish to eat. You can find also really nice shops, independent brands, strange haircut dressers and vintage shops.

Vondelpark

This is not a touristic area but that is a pity because here are the vibrant 19th century wealth part of the city (especially true around the Museum quarter) with all its Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings, strange shapes, astonishing architectural statues. What saying of this huge park where you can find so many Amsterdamians, with their children, or doing their jogging,… A good way to cross this is to take the tram 3 (that, can be taken on Haarlemmerplein, at the end of the Haarlemdijk street), because first you can see through the windows this astonishing architecture and cross a long distant and secondly, you are seated.

The Old Centre

Even if you have fully booked all your stay planning, this part of the city is in the cross of so many ways that, at least to reach other parts of the city. One thing interesting is that if, yes, you can find many old facades, that is true mostly for the canals houses and this, for every canals, not only in the old centre.

The Red District

Of course, it is the place to go because, after all, the Red District is known for its windows. But, I have to say that I was a bit uncomfortable for many reasons but, one thing astonished me: if you go around the Oude Kerk (that, stricto sensus, not in the Red Light district), you have this impressive religious building and, all around, cafes, one chocolate seller (Puccini, excellent, see below) and… a lot of windows! This difference of worlds and spheres is really interesting and gave me reflection until now.
Interesting to see, in the North of the district, the “China town” that is, actually, a long street, the Zeedijk. But you can find here a Buddhist temple (between Stormsteeg and the Nieuwmarkt place).

The old Jewish Quarter

The area was deeply changed after the war and what you could see in guides about diamond sellers is not really…palpable. When I arrived on this large place with the Portuguese Synagogue, you see the new face of this district: an alive testimony of the former Jewish implantation and the modern city plane and architecture that was operated in there and… this impression to be in a suburb of a big American city. But this area is also the one of Museums: many of them are relative to the Jewish or Second WW history (the Joods Historisch Museum, Verzetsmuseum, De Hollandsche Schouwburg and the Wertheimpark memorial and the Jonas Daniel Meijerplein memorial) but also other subjects (as the Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum, the Nemo, the Hermitage Amsterdam)

Reference

Of course, there are also a lot of different books and maps that are main resources for a trip through the Dutch capital.

Rambling trip in Skye

Summary of the trail:
Skye is an extraordinary island. During our 3 days spent there, we were really amazed by Skye: its people, its breathtaking landscapes, its Highland games (just excellent) and its good whisky too! Note that it is quite easy, during the season, to visit the island and ramble without a car. It only requires planning: sleep in Portree, wake up early (but as usual for walkers) and be careful with the bus timetable! This following trail is not enough precise to take it as a guide while walking. The idea is definitely to help you to see what could be interesting to see and where to walk from our experience.

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Your name as author of the trail: Hélène Herniou – visicity

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Reaching the island

Day 1

How to arrive?

Take the bus citylink from Glasgow or Kyle of Lochalsh (accessible by train from Inverness) towards Uig and stop in Portree. If you arrive at the end of the afternoon as we did, there are activities you can still do:

To see in Portree
  • Walk through the streets and shops if they are still open (the tourist information/shop is quite interesting). However, mind that the iconic picture of Portree with coloured facades houses is actually only a small part of the tiny harbour of the city but that is worth the end of your walk in the capital city of the island.
  • If it’s still early on the day you will arrive, there is a walk around Portree that is quite nice and easy: use the Scorrybreac Road (direction the Cuillin Hills hotel), follow the foot path that will bring you to the other side of the bay, where are some fish farms and a strange tribute place to the Clan Nicolson. It’s seems that common seals can also sometimes be seen swimming by the shore so stay aware! This loop trail takes around 1h30.
To eat in Portree

We didn’t try everything but these both deserve really a trial:

  • the Fish and chips on the harbour that offers also “haggis and chips”. It’s exactly the same recipe than the battered fish but with a slice of haggis… totally decadent but so good! Nonetheless, it’s better to share one with somebody else…
  • the Isles Inn (pub and restaurant)
Sleep in Portree

There are many hotels and B&B in Portree. We found this solution to sleep in Portree easier with the buses system but if you don’t have this kind of “problem”, you can find very fine B&B in the middle of nowhere. About our experience, we were in the best B&B that we ever have slept in until now:

  • Auch an Doune The tenants, Joanne and her husband, are just lovely and she is much more than a “fair” cooker, it’s a pleasure! She speaks different languages thanks to her different guests, the bed is heavenly comfortable and the house is nice and well located. Well, perfect!

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The Storr and the Quiraing

Day 2

The Storr: how to arrive?

Take the bus 57a (mind the letter after the number) in the bus station (in front of the Scottish Court Service). We advice to take the bus early in the morning because it allows you to enjoy all the day and not have too many tourists on the trails. Stop at the Storr.
Take the public footpath through the forest, to the direction of the Man of Storr. The path is quite clear and the other tourists are also a good clue to know where the direction is.
2 possibilities for this trail: the complete loop (around 4 hours, 8km) and the “little” loop (around 2 hours, 3.5km). We both did only the short loop because we wanted to ramble to the Quiraing after (see below).

About

This walk is the most popular walk on Skye thanks to its iconic pinnacle, the Man of Storr. The path crosses a “synthetic” forest that travel you through the Vosges to a Mediterranean landscape, from a lunar scenery to a path like in the Lord of the Rings; by this diversity of views, we can say that this ramble is a very good introduction to the magic walks available on Skye.

The Quiraing: how to arrive?

After the walk to the Storr, you can take again the 57a bus toward the Quiraing (stop in Flodigarry).

About

The path is sometimes a little bit hard to find, especially at the end (to ramble down Loch Leum na Luirginn/Sartle). But this walk is so amazing! The Storr was great, the Quiraing is super duper! Each side of mountains and vales are so different; each time you have the impression to enter in another world! You see the sea, the mountain, the rocks, the meadows, bog,… Just incredible 7 km (around 3 or 5 hours) of walk and amazed!
For the return to Portree, we finished the loop of the Trotternish peninsula by bus: first because it was easier to catch the bus in this direction, secondly because we needed this time without walk to restore my feet and finally because it is a way to see this wonderful part of Skye, quickly (interesting if you don’t have enough days to spend on the island!)

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The Talisker Bay

Day 3

How to arrive?

From Portree, you can take the bus 608 toward Fiskavaig. In Fiskavaig, a road (then a path) can be used to walk to the Talisker Bay, on the beach. After it, another path is available toward Carbost, where the Talisker Distillery is (!)

About

The first part of this walk is really bucolic (with cows, farms,…). You arrive after on a wonderful large beach with a “salt and pepper” sand. It is really impressive because two rivers finish their run on the sea: River Talisker and Sleadale Burn.
The rest of the walk is really agreeable because we walk, alone, in the green vale. The walk is really easy and takes around 5 hours but that is definitely worth it… especially when you end with a visit in the Talisker Distilery, really interesting! (Mind to book before).
Interesting story: Samuel Johnson and James Boswell stayed in the Talisker House (that belonged at this time to the heir to the chief of the MacLeods) during their tour of the Highlands in 1773 but… didn’t really share the same feeling about their stay!

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Drive out of Skye

Day 4

How to arrive?

After Skye, our next stage was Fort William; that’s why we decided to drive away by the south-west of the island (part that we didn’t have enough time to visit). For this, we took the bus 52 to Armadale then a ferry from Armadale to Mallaig (quite impressive!) and the train to Fort William.
On the train line, there’s also the “Harry Potter train”, a steam train with wood interiors. We strongly recommend to use the “regular” train because first there are more trains, then this one is comfortable (large windows, really interesting to see the wonderful landscapes) and an “acceptable” level of children and grand-parents in regard of the “old” train (of course, I’m joking but it’s sure that the noise level and the number of free seats are definitely not the same).

Reference

Of course, there are also a lot of different books and maps that are main resources for a trip through the island.

4km of History and present of Paris

Summary of the trail:

Paris has never stopped developing, changing, building and being a witness to its times, from the Roman period until the end of the 20th century. The left bank is a particularly good example of this running history thanks its so many vestiges still standing. With this trail, I recommend you discover with fun and games 18 centuries of History! (this walk is family friendly)

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Your name as author of the trail: Hélène Herniou – visicity

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Bricks and stones wall

Step 1

How to arrive at this step?

From the line 10 underground station “Cluny-La Sorbonne”, continue straight ahead toward the boulevard Saint-Michel and take on your left hand at the corner. Walk a few metres until you see three walls in bricks and white stones.

Riddle

Thermes-de-Cluny-caldarium_ by Octave.H via WikipediaHave you seen that the grounds of these three different areas (on the left and on the right of the space in front of you with the arches) are not at the same level? Do you know why?

  • Grounds were at the same level but with destructions and archaeological excavations, they aren’t any more.
  • The street is sloped, they were obliged to adapt their construction to have a flat floor
  • These buildings were ancient thermal baths with different baths of different depths
Answer
These walls are effectively the old Roman thermal baths, built between the 2nd and 3rd century. You are seeing now walls in white stones and bricks but you have to imagine them covered by a coating and presenting a fine and very aesthetic decor. Brick was used to build less expensive constructions (ashlar are more expensive than brick) but was used here mainly for the brick thermal qualities. Indeed, three different baths formed these thermal baths: tepidarium (tepid water bath), caldarium (warm bath) and frigidarium (cold bath). Different temperatures but also different ways of bathing (totally immersed or not) so different levels of floors. Moreover, heating and water evacuation were located under the floor where a complex system was developed under each bath.
It’s quite hard to imagine how important for Romans and Romanized peoples were thermal baths: it was an open space (open to everyone, the entrance price cost almost 0,50€), where everyone came to work out body (sport in the gymnasium, before bathing) and mind (library inside the bath complex), where they had appointments and all these in a fine place: marble on walls or paintings and almost each time mosaics. Besides, there is still a mosaic from the Roman thermal baths showed in the Museum of Cluny, if you have time, this museum is worth really the visit!
References

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The oldest church of Paris

Step 2

How to arrive at this step?

Walk around the Museum (if you have time, walk through the medieval garden that is really nice) and reach the Cluny street (rue de Cluny) then the Boulevard saint-Germain, then the rue saint-Jacques, straight ahead toward the chevet of Saint-Severin church (extraordinary choir and ambulatory, a must see if you have time!). Then turn to your right hand toward the rue Galande then, left hand, on the rue saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. You are in front of the church; if it is open, enter to visit it. If not, go behind, in the square René Viviani.

Riddle

Why this square is famous for?

  • This is the smallest square of Paris
  • This is the only proper view from which to see Notre-Dame quietly and without any tourists
  • It has the oldest tree of Paris
Answer
robinier faux acacia_by G@ttoGiallo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gattogiallo/)We are here in an area with very old stuff. Yes, this place is often the best area to see quietly Notre-Dame but it is also where the oldest tree of Paris is supposed to be: It is said to have been planted in 1601 by the botanist Jean Robin.

Georges-Jeanclos_by Groume (https://www.flickr.com/photos/groume/)Near this tree, you can see a sculpture by Georges Jeanclos dedicated to local children dead during the deportation.

Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre by Archway Andres (https://www.flickr.com/photos/andres-y-linda/)But if you are in this square it is also because of the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre church, the oldest church of Paris, built in the 12th century. At this time, you have to imagine that you were outside Paris; around you: only fields, monasteries, fishermen. In front of you, Notre-Dame has just started its current construction as you know it today and –so strange for us to imagine– several islands on the river Seine: not only the Cité island as we know it today, but three shorter ones.

References

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The French Revolution

Step 3

How to arrive at this step?

Now, go toward Notre-Dame by the bridge just in front of you.

Riddle

During the French Revoluion, Parisians destroyed many church portals but on the Notre-Dame portals, one sculpture was left untouched, the one of sainte Geneviève (to see it, go to the left portal, left door, look at the right side of doorway, on the lower third). Why?

  • They didn’t see her
  • They were superstitious
  • They did destroy it, the legend is wrong
Answer
Portil de la Vierge_by wallyg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/wallyg/)Sainte Genevieve is the patron saint of the city of Paris and it seems that she was closely involved in the construction of the first church of Notre-Dame. She is also present in another part of Paris: on the saint Genevieve “mountain” where stands the Pantheon. During the French Revolution there was a lot of destruction but with the aim of breaking the hierarchy made of noble(wo)men (including, for the more extreme revolutionaries, the King) and clergy but not religion itself (it will be later and elsewhere). Saint Genevieve is not a symbol of the clergy but of the protection of the city and its independence (the mythological tale said that she threw on the besieging enemies a pig to tell them that the siege of the city can last longer as Parisians have more than enough to live, which was highly wrong of course. Certainly this tale is wrong but it is quite funny!).
References

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An open-air sculpture museum

Step 4

How to arrive at this step

Walk around the cathedral and take the bridge, at the end of the island, Quai de l’Archevêché. Walk on the Seine River bank, in the opposite direction of the traffic and take the first double stairs you find on your left. Walk down the dock until the Arab World Institute (huge white rectangle building with pattern of musharabie) is above you and the park with several stairs in front of you.

Alternative route: in the square behind the cathedral, continue to the saint-Louis island, in front of you and wander through short streets and docks and finish by a Berthillon ice cream (31 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Île) to give you energy for the end of this trail. Then take the Boulevard Henri IV (at the opposite end of the island from where you entered it) on your right hand and go down to the docks.

Riddle

How many sculptures are standing in this square?

  • 37
  • 25
  • 13
Answer
Musee sculpture en plein aire_by Drumaboy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/drumaboy/)You are here in the open-air sculpture museum of the Paris Council with its 37 sculptures, made between the 1950’s and the end of the 20th century. (for more detail, see the links below)
References

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From private royal 'drugstore' to free lessons in botanic, chemistry and anatomy

Step 5

How to arrive at this step

Follow the dock then walk up until the Jardin des Plantes (Plants Garden) gate. Enter. Wander through the park in the direction of the huge sculpture makes you back, in the middle lane, in front of the Museum façade.
Satue de Buffon

Riddle

Who is represented by this statue?

  • Buffon
  • Cuvier
  • Diderot
Answer
You are in the Jardin des Plantes (Plants garden), the first place where botanic, chemistry and anatomy were taught for free in Paris (since 1640). In 1739 Georges-Louis Leclerc, Earl of Buffon (1707-1788) was appointed head of the Parisian Jardin du Roi (name at this time of the Jardin des Plantes, it was, at this time, the private stock of medicinal plants for the king) and transformed it into a true scientific research centre. He wrote here also the 36 volumes of his main work, L'Histoire naturelle, générale et particulière (1749–1788). In this statue, Buffon carries his watch on this place.

Get higher in this garden and keep following Buffon by finding the gloriette, after the greenhouses on the right side when facing the museum. A spiral footpath is waiting for you to bring you in this pavillon where it said that Buffon watched the sky. You will read “Horas non numero nisi serenas” on the fronton because it was used as sundial; you understand now why “I count only the hours without clouds”.

References

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Paris is not only Paris

Step 6

How to arrive at this step

Walk out of the Jardin des Plantes by the Museum entrance and take on your left the Rue Daubenton then right, the Rue Georges Desplas. You are turning around the Mosque of Paris, our last step of this trail –the main gate is in front of you, 2bis Place du Puits de l’Ermite.

Riddle

Which year was inaugurated the Mosque of Paris?

  • 1895
  • 1926
  • 1947
Answer
Mosquee de Paris_by Marie Sophie Bock Digne (https://www.flickr.com/photos/planetevivante/) In 1895, a first Mosque project was planned on the Quai d’Orsay (where are the National Assembly or the Invalides) but the current Mosque was decided after the First World War in honour of the Muslim soldiers who fought for France. In 1922, the construction (wholly financed by the French government) began and finished by the inauguration on the 16th July 1926. Architectural styles used are Tunisian (for the minaret) and Moroccan. The mosque comprises the large hall for prayers, one madrassa (school), a library, a conference hall, Arabic gardens and annex areas turned towards tourists and visitors. Because today, you can visit the mosque (except the Friday), bathe in the hammam or taste one of their Oriental pastries or Mint tee in the nice patio, like a jaunt in Morocco in the heart of Paris.
References
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Paris, city of water ways – Exchange with outside of Paris

Summary of the trail: We know Paris as the City of Lights but not as city of waterways. However, Paris is built around the Seine River and “cut” by many canals. Strong communication ways, these canals belong to the Parisian landscape as romantic or picturesque ribbons and no longer as highways. Let’s scratch this idea and go to the past, to discover a city quite different as the one we know!

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Your name as author of the trail: Hélène Herniou – visicity

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A curious sculpture

Step 1

How to arrive at this step?

Go out of the underground station “Stalingrad” and go to the fountain, on the left side of the canal (with the Stalingrad gate-rotunda in your back)

What?

Kamakura_JeanclosI was really astonished when I discovered this fountain: in the middle of buildings, large streets, shouts and an environment full of life, this so calm sculpture, on the top of a fountain without water clashes with everything that surrounds it. This sculpture shows a shaved seating male figure wearing a Buddhist priest toga, in a meaningful position by the mudras (Sanskrit term to define these specific meaningful hands position). The message here given is protection (fingers joined are the symbol of absence of fear because of the protection given by Buddha and the lifted palm is also a protection symbol). I didn’t find sure information about it, but it seems that, as Gearges Jeanclos has designed (with architect Bernard Huet) the squared fountain in the middle of the Stalingrad square and he created the Kamakura sculptures series (c. 1988) that look like this fountain sculpture, it is likely that we are in front of one of his works. Kamakura is a Japanese city and defines a history period (1185-1333).

References

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Rotonde de la Villette

Step 2

How to arrive at this step?

Turn to your right hand and come to this huge round building

What?
BarrieresFG_by wikiGenWeb
map by WikiGenWeb

This building is known as the Villette rotunda. This rotunda is actually one of the last three gates erected in Paris by Ledoux still in place. Villette was, before to be a part of the current Paris, a village at the fringe of Paris and at that time, the goods coming and going in or out Paris were taxed. Yet, this gate was an aesthetic ornament for collector of customs taxes, controllers and horse guards desks. You are maybe feeling in front of a strict building with more stones than openings but if you detail precisely the building, yet you are seeing different aperture sizes, a different work of stone surface to play with the light, a fight between vertical columns and pillars versus horizontal lines, … If it open, please enter in this building and let Claude Nicolas Ledoux surprise you again!

References

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The last lift bridge of Paris

Step 3

How to arrive at this step?

After you’ve spent time time of admiring the rotunda, walk around the Villette pool, especially on the right side. There you will find graffiti, an elevated bridge above the lock (that communicates directly with the Saint-Martin Canal); now you are living an Amelie effect! Walk along the right side of the canal (Quai de la Loire), straight away toward the long red brick building. After the building, turn on your left hand and cross the bridge.

What?

PontDeCrimeeThis bridge was built in 1885 to let pedestrians cross the bridge even of this one was open to let a ship navigate on the canal. This bridge is the last lift bridge in Paris but also an evidence of the capital city’s fluvial activity until the beginning of the 20th century. The little place surrounded by trees, in front of a church is the Bitche Place (it’s also the name of a Lorraine village and of a battle); subject of a Jules Romains poem (in Lovers journey).

References

 

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Paris, its past, its modernity

Step 4

How to arrive at this stepBassinDeLaVillette_Mesnager?

Walk back some steps toward the right bank of the canal and then straight ahead along the canal. Play the video underneath when you reach the huge metal bridge covered by graffiti (among them one by Jérôme Mesnager, the white human silhouette)

Lys Gauty, Le bassin de la Villette

References

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End is only the beginning!

Step 5

How to arrive at this step?

Walk past the canals roundabout (meeting point between the Saint-Martin canal and Ourcq canal) to go straight ahead toward the red structures. You are entering in the Villette “territory” with this first red “folie” (these structures can be only a pedestrian signal or a restaurant, …). Go up the stairs then turn on left to reach the underground line 7 (Porte de la Villette) or walk on the bridge and down on your right for the underground line 5 (Porte de Pantin)

What?

Parc de la VilletteThese red structures are a good clue to understand where you are (numbers on every folie) inside this huge park. It was designed during the 1980’s on the former area of Parisian abattoirs. This area is designed as an open space (whatever the hour of the night or the day) to everyone, to every kind of wandering and as an educational, artistic and scientific place (Science and industrial city, Music city, cinema, fair hall, zenith, (black) submarine, …). Materials and shapes used are thoroughly thought by its architect, Robert Tschumi, because, if you feel lost in this huge park, see the ground materials: two different colours, one for the quick circulation (go from a place to another, for pedestrians, cyclists, rollers) and another which zigzag through all the park and offer you different atmospheres during your wondering. Our trail is finished but this great park is really worth a walk through both banks of the Ourcq canal.

Jaimi Faulkner, In the morning light she goes

References
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